The Napali Coast on Kauai’s north shore extends for roughly 15 miles, starting at Ke’e Beach and ending at Polihale State park. The ancient Kalalau trail meanders along the cliffs and through the valleys. Many an archaeologist have gone missing here, absorbed by the areas fascinating history, and mana.

Historical Artist Raymond A. Massey captures the romance of both the age of exploration and the Napali Coast in his painting “The 1837 Charting Expedition of Hanalei Bay.”

The 1837 Charting Expedition of Hanalei Bay by Raymond A. Massey

Massey is renowned for his historical accuracy and detail. The depiction of the coast on that day is based on journal entries from Captain Belcher. Upon completing the painting Massey commented that he felt as if he had crawled the entire length of the Napali coast on his stomach.

Inspired by Massey we decided to set sail ourselves on a Historic expedition of the Napali coast. Our goal was to retrace the route of the HMS Sulphur, outward bound from Hanalei Bay on July 27, 1837. Our journey would take place exactly 200 years hence to the day, on August 30, 2008, I think it was. To help us on our trip we commandeered the vessel Sea Breeze, of Napali Sea Breaze Tours. “Commandeer” is perhaps slightly misleading a word. Captain Bob let me control the second steering wheel. Although I am now told that the second steering column was actually broken. sigh.

Retracing the route of the HMS Sulfur we discovered something very interesting.
Massey clearly shows the vessel on a NW heading with Ke’e beach in the background. Captain Belcher never had any intention of traveling along the Napali coast. But why, it’s so pretty after all? My theory, which I have forwarded to the New England Journal of Medicine, not historical but sufficiently prestigious, is that Captain Belcher anchored at Tunnels beach for a snorkel. There he was bitten by a dolphin with rabies and simply went completely insane.

The Start of the Napali Coast at Ke

Be sure to stop by Ship Store Galleries in the Coconut Grove market place in Kapaa to see Massey’s terrific work.